Now spoiler alert. I never owned a truck... But that deosnt mean case closed. I own a 2002 accura MDX. And it has earned the name truck-kun. Yeah its AWD instead of RWD or 4WD. Yeah its a SUV. Yeah it cant tow shit. But it has all the other stuff that teaches me about trucks. And I think my Truck-kun is close enough to let me bitch about trucks. So lets have at it.
Weight: unless your talking those teeny ass trucks thats the same height of a CRV, this section is important. As somthing you need to know about them Tacomas, them F150s, them Ridglines, is that there heavy. Meaning many things. They are harder to accelerate and harder to slow down. You dont wanna be entering the xander zone with these things because they require way more distance to slow down the a Civic or even the tiny ish trucks. Or smaller scale SUVs. But the same applys to large SUVs. A 4 runner is literally a Tacoma with plastic surgery. A Tahoe is problably gonna be a modifyed Silverado or other truck. A Sequioa is bassicy a Tundra modded into a SUV. So large trucks plus large SUVs are gonna be harder to slow down, harder to accelerate, will require a bit more steering and wont turn as tight as dat rav4. Its gonna be harder to manuver around areas. So keep that in mind as you will need to compensate for all of that. Drive a bit slower then usual. Dont road rage in a bigger vehicle(better yet in genral). Dont drive like me before my first ticket. Drive like you dont wanna deal with a ticket or wreck.
Weight pt2: now another thing to consider is maintaing the vehicle. When a vehcle is larger in size, it means parts will also be larger in size. That'll equate to more costly parts. Brake pads for my 2002 MDX was 50% more pricey then same part for my 2001 CRV that I still fucking miss. Oil changes, it has a bigger engine meaning itll need more oil meaning oil changes will be a bit more expensive. Same with all fluids really but to be honest, the only fluids your realisticly changing on a common occurance is engine oil. Most dont even know how to swap oil to begin with. But bigger size means bigger evetything else. Also means bigger gas bill as the vehcile will guzzle gas. Truck-kun here uses a J35 engine. Mean its a 3.5L. So its gonna treat gas the same way was I treat mexican coke. Speacking of gas.
Age: now if you have a older ish truck, its gonna be on the low side of fuel efficiancy. And age will worsten it. So what do you do? You maintain it. MAF/MAP sensors should be cleaned as if it deosnt detect oxygen, itll send even more fuel down range. Sparkplugs not sparking hot enough means unburnt fuel meaning itll get wasted. Check the fuel enjector o-rings to make sure they arent leacking gas. Also pray they arent dirty. All of these are super cheap & easy ways to save fuel costs. The Cat converter, will be 200-500$ and I really dont know how much fuel you"ll be saving keeping it up to date. The transmission, if its a auto and the cars old then shifting gear will problably be both delayed and rough. So keep that in mind and be soft on it. If its a manual then consider swapping the trans fluid. Check coolant unless you want your engine to jihad max. Inspect brake pads/ rotors. If you plan to keep the vehicle and treat it like a dream car, then I guggest you proactivly replace wheel bearings to prevent a car accident. And balljoints.
Rust: now I havent halled shit. But if the rust on the main chassis is bad enough, throwing shit on the bed can deliver shock to the main chassi fucking up things and possibly splitting the main chassis on a fualt line. So check for rust before hauling shit. Check Id say once a year. Just in case.
Offroading: Now I dont have jack shit for offroading. But many things can go wrong for improperly modded offroaders/old cars. My truck-kun has a reputation for over heating transmissions. And with how auto-trans work, if you take it offroading and your not carefull or have a seperate trans radiator. Then you can fuck up the trans by cooking the fluid to death. Another thing that can go wrong on offroading is breacking the gears on a differential. IDK how it happens but it apperantly can. Ball joints can breack. And CV axles can get fucked up. I'll say this, I dont off road alot again so I dont know much shit but if you wanna take your truck offroading, learn about it first and watch plenty of youtube videos.
Towing: Another thing I havent done but some things to consider. Remember on the weight part were I said you'll have a harder time breacking/accelerating? Well I have some news for you. Thats gonna get alot worst. You know how on the free way the signs have semi trucks limits 10MPH less then on normal vehcles? Thats because of breacking distance being jurrasticly increased. Yes the trailers may have breack & rotors installed on them but even with those hooked up the weight will still be there. Another thing is making lane changes will be way harder as now you gotta acount for the big ass trailer. Unless you see a car with Chads & Stacies. But you need way more space to do shit now. And you have way less room to do it.
Tow pt2: oh yeah, good luck with blind spots. LOL. But semi trucks do tend to have a array of mirrors set up for minimizing blind spots. And I think they should be on other vehicles regaurdless. As the extra angles can preven shit from going bad. But when you turn with a trailer, consider your gonna have multiple blind spots that will be sticking outwards during the turn. The back of the trailer oposit of were you tow will stick out during the turn. Same with back of the truck. Depending on what you use to tow, your turn radius will be changed as it'll problably get far wider then without the tailer. Meaning in total you will take up more space and see less space at the same time then without a trailer.
Tow pt3: IDK if you seen it before but theres some videos of towing gone wrong. The back trailer wobbles like a fish tail and the side to side energy goes to the truck causing the truck to flop on a side. I dont know how this start or how to prevent/stop/reduce it. But thats somthing you should know about before towing. Better to know and avoid this bad shit.
Other: get good tires. Trucks are mainly utility vehickles. Somtimes you'll be doing wild shit and good tires will be helpfull. A single cab is usefull for winter as the less area of ambience it has compared to a SUV or 4 door allows the heater core to heat up the cabin faster. Have a windsheld scrapper, handy for ice shit.
Conclusion: trucks or large sized trucks & large SUVs are a triple edge sword. The 2 of the edges will be pointing to the both dumb and inexperienced. You want to know what the fuck your getting into. You dont want to get a truck and think shit will be merry. No, its gonna take a bit of extra skill compared to a CRV or Civic. You need to compensate for the weight, the extra size and other factors. I hope this becomes usefull to anyone who plans on truck maxing and hope you enjoyed another book long thread.
Weight: unless your talking those teeny ass trucks thats the same height of a CRV, this section is important. As somthing you need to know about them Tacomas, them F150s, them Ridglines, is that there heavy. Meaning many things. They are harder to accelerate and harder to slow down. You dont wanna be entering the xander zone with these things because they require way more distance to slow down the a Civic or even the tiny ish trucks. Or smaller scale SUVs. But the same applys to large SUVs. A 4 runner is literally a Tacoma with plastic surgery. A Tahoe is problably gonna be a modifyed Silverado or other truck. A Sequioa is bassicy a Tundra modded into a SUV. So large trucks plus large SUVs are gonna be harder to slow down, harder to accelerate, will require a bit more steering and wont turn as tight as dat rav4. Its gonna be harder to manuver around areas. So keep that in mind as you will need to compensate for all of that. Drive a bit slower then usual. Dont road rage in a bigger vehicle(better yet in genral). Dont drive like me before my first ticket. Drive like you dont wanna deal with a ticket or wreck.
Weight pt2: now another thing to consider is maintaing the vehicle. When a vehcle is larger in size, it means parts will also be larger in size. That'll equate to more costly parts. Brake pads for my 2002 MDX was 50% more pricey then same part for my 2001 CRV that I still fucking miss. Oil changes, it has a bigger engine meaning itll need more oil meaning oil changes will be a bit more expensive. Same with all fluids really but to be honest, the only fluids your realisticly changing on a common occurance is engine oil. Most dont even know how to swap oil to begin with. But bigger size means bigger evetything else. Also means bigger gas bill as the vehcile will guzzle gas. Truck-kun here uses a J35 engine. Mean its a 3.5L. So its gonna treat gas the same way was I treat mexican coke. Speacking of gas.
Age: now if you have a older ish truck, its gonna be on the low side of fuel efficiancy. And age will worsten it. So what do you do? You maintain it. MAF/MAP sensors should be cleaned as if it deosnt detect oxygen, itll send even more fuel down range. Sparkplugs not sparking hot enough means unburnt fuel meaning itll get wasted. Check the fuel enjector o-rings to make sure they arent leacking gas. Also pray they arent dirty. All of these are super cheap & easy ways to save fuel costs. The Cat converter, will be 200-500$ and I really dont know how much fuel you"ll be saving keeping it up to date. The transmission, if its a auto and the cars old then shifting gear will problably be both delayed and rough. So keep that in mind and be soft on it. If its a manual then consider swapping the trans fluid. Check coolant unless you want your engine to jihad max. Inspect brake pads/ rotors. If you plan to keep the vehicle and treat it like a dream car, then I guggest you proactivly replace wheel bearings to prevent a car accident. And balljoints.
Rust: now I havent halled shit. But if the rust on the main chassis is bad enough, throwing shit on the bed can deliver shock to the main chassi fucking up things and possibly splitting the main chassis on a fualt line. So check for rust before hauling shit. Check Id say once a year. Just in case.
Offroading: Now I dont have jack shit for offroading. But many things can go wrong for improperly modded offroaders/old cars. My truck-kun has a reputation for over heating transmissions. And with how auto-trans work, if you take it offroading and your not carefull or have a seperate trans radiator. Then you can fuck up the trans by cooking the fluid to death. Another thing that can go wrong on offroading is breacking the gears on a differential. IDK how it happens but it apperantly can. Ball joints can breack. And CV axles can get fucked up. I'll say this, I dont off road alot again so I dont know much shit but if you wanna take your truck offroading, learn about it first and watch plenty of youtube videos.
Towing: Another thing I havent done but some things to consider. Remember on the weight part were I said you'll have a harder time breacking/accelerating? Well I have some news for you. Thats gonna get alot worst. You know how on the free way the signs have semi trucks limits 10MPH less then on normal vehcles? Thats because of breacking distance being jurrasticly increased. Yes the trailers may have breack & rotors installed on them but even with those hooked up the weight will still be there. Another thing is making lane changes will be way harder as now you gotta acount for the big ass trailer. Unless you see a car with Chads & Stacies. But you need way more space to do shit now. And you have way less room to do it.
Tow pt2: oh yeah, good luck with blind spots. LOL. But semi trucks do tend to have a array of mirrors set up for minimizing blind spots. And I think they should be on other vehicles regaurdless. As the extra angles can preven shit from going bad. But when you turn with a trailer, consider your gonna have multiple blind spots that will be sticking outwards during the turn. The back of the trailer oposit of were you tow will stick out during the turn. Same with back of the truck. Depending on what you use to tow, your turn radius will be changed as it'll problably get far wider then without the tailer. Meaning in total you will take up more space and see less space at the same time then without a trailer.
Tow pt3: IDK if you seen it before but theres some videos of towing gone wrong. The back trailer wobbles like a fish tail and the side to side energy goes to the truck causing the truck to flop on a side. I dont know how this start or how to prevent/stop/reduce it. But thats somthing you should know about before towing. Better to know and avoid this bad shit.
Other: get good tires. Trucks are mainly utility vehickles. Somtimes you'll be doing wild shit and good tires will be helpfull. A single cab is usefull for winter as the less area of ambience it has compared to a SUV or 4 door allows the heater core to heat up the cabin faster. Have a windsheld scrapper, handy for ice shit.
Conclusion: trucks or large sized trucks & large SUVs are a triple edge sword. The 2 of the edges will be pointing to the both dumb and inexperienced. You want to know what the fuck your getting into. You dont want to get a truck and think shit will be merry. No, its gonna take a bit of extra skill compared to a CRV or Civic. You need to compensate for the weight, the extra size and other factors. I hope this becomes usefull to anyone who plans on truck maxing and hope you enjoyed another book long thread.
