As somone who hasnt taken any automotive classess, I somhow have a better understanding of it then even the trade Im going for, HVAC. Probably because of my first gen CRV needing a shit load of work back in the day. Theres a shit load of catogories but there all pretty simple ones or most of them. And Im low on time so lets get to buissness.
SUSPENSION: when it comes to this you only really need to worry about 3 or 2 things. Wheel bearings, ball joints and rubber bushings. Stuff like controll arms are extremely unlikely to go bad considering its a thick peice of fucking steel. But those three things are the more likely scenario. And all 3 are a bitch to remove especially if you dont have all the tools you need or its seized up for being on forever. So simple but so complex. Shocks are easy to replace depending on how you do it are replace the part. But its mostly a matter of removing the nuts under the hood that hold on to such strut. The bushings are mostly press fitting and requires problably tye same tools as for wheel bearings. Or ball joints if the bushing size fits. Wheel bearings theres a veriety of ways, I never did one myself but good luck if you need to do so without the proper tools LOL.
ENGINE: replace the oild ever half year or I think 5K miles. Drain it out of the plug (oil pan should be underneath the engine and have a round square bulge), replace the filter if possible or everytime you do a oil change, get a oil wrench, itll save you wrist pain. Put oil on the oil filter gasket to prevent leacks and just hand tighten it. You dont need it super tight its like 15 FT IBS. When oil is drained get a new washer for the drain plug and put it back in Id say 20 FT IBS but it can vary. You should try to replace the PCV vaulve if possible to prevent pil pushing through the piston rings saving a fuck load in money just by a 10 $ part.
SPARK PLUGS: unless you get fancy ass ruthium spark plugs from NGK like I did for my crv, theyll typically last you 30K miles. Unless its a subaru then its a matter of popping the hood, taking out the sparkplug wires, taking out the plugs them selfs and putting in new plugs. Tighten them at Id say 20 FT IBS. Alternatively if you got ruthium spark plugs youll want to clean them. IDK what you would use to clean em but my best geuss is the fuel for your vehicles. Adjust to round bar peice to ensure proper arcing of the plugs and put back in. At 100K miles youll want to consider replacing both the plug wires and ignition coil to ensure proper circuit on the whole ignition system. Beisdes thatbmake sure the alternator (I dont know shit about) and the car battery is in good condition. Symptoms of bad ignition is typically high RMP and rough idling.
Breacks are actually the first thing I did. Take out the lug nuts, then the brake calipers then the caliper brackets. Replace the rotor too just incase. DO NOT USE A IMPACT TO TIGHTEN THE CALIPER! Caliper bracket on the other hand is safe to tighten with a impact if not to high torqe. Brake fluid, have a professional do brake fluid. Itll save your brakes. Brake fluid is a bitch to fix.
TRANSMISSION: So there isnt much to say from me except a couple things. If the transmission is high mileage then do not flush especially a automatic translation because itll clog veins preventing the gear from being lubricated and fucking up the system. Instead just do a simple fluid exchage. I never driven or worked on a manual. But clutches should be replaced on occassion. IDK how often though but be sure to replace the pilot bearing along with the clutch. And probably the fluid to. Differential fluid if your car works all 4 wheels is extremely easy to replace if you have a first gen CRV. Not so much with most of the other vehicles out there since youll have to use liquid gasket and tighten the gasket bolts in a super complex version of whats like tire lugnuts. But its as straight forward as simply replacing the fluid but always remove the fill plug first if the diff has one before the drain. Because if you cant remove the fill plug and you drain it out. You'll be in a world of shit. Speacking of 4wd/awd. Look into greasing the drive shaft bearings and pray you dont need to replace the drive shaft bushings.
Coolant. One of the most hardcore jobs I did incar was replacing the radiator. Drain out the coolant. Use distilled water to flush out all the old coolant. Drain out that water and quick before your engine rusts up. Disconnet all hoses/wires leading to the fan. Including the transmission hoses if the radiator has that too. Then take out the shit load of bolts that mount the radiator. Put in the new one. The hoses will be a bitch to take in and out. Be ready. Then comes the tedious part. Putting in new coolant. You have to put it in the fill side radiator and when it fills, run the engine, watch as it all goes down. Fill it up again, and again and again. Its a extremely simple but long proccess. Just like:
STEARING: or stearing fluid. Except you flow the fluid through via turning the wheen as you replace fluid via pump and pour. Just dont siphon to much fluid out the resivor or youll get air and shit in the system. Alternatively you could use transmission fluid in the system or thats what some mechanics will do. Tie rods on the other hand will need a alignment after replacing.
Sorry if I miss out alot of details(and spelling/grammer fuck ups) Ill fill it in via a big ass comment on the thread. I gotta go to work at wagy ass amozon. And deliver food. Hope I dont give moldy berries to another foild unless I want to get fucking fired.
See yall in a shit load of hours.
SUSPENSION: when it comes to this you only really need to worry about 3 or 2 things. Wheel bearings, ball joints and rubber bushings. Stuff like controll arms are extremely unlikely to go bad considering its a thick peice of fucking steel. But those three things are the more likely scenario. And all 3 are a bitch to remove especially if you dont have all the tools you need or its seized up for being on forever. So simple but so complex. Shocks are easy to replace depending on how you do it are replace the part. But its mostly a matter of removing the nuts under the hood that hold on to such strut. The bushings are mostly press fitting and requires problably tye same tools as for wheel bearings. Or ball joints if the bushing size fits. Wheel bearings theres a veriety of ways, I never did one myself but good luck if you need to do so without the proper tools LOL.
ENGINE: replace the oild ever half year or I think 5K miles. Drain it out of the plug (oil pan should be underneath the engine and have a round square bulge), replace the filter if possible or everytime you do a oil change, get a oil wrench, itll save you wrist pain. Put oil on the oil filter gasket to prevent leacks and just hand tighten it. You dont need it super tight its like 15 FT IBS. When oil is drained get a new washer for the drain plug and put it back in Id say 20 FT IBS but it can vary. You should try to replace the PCV vaulve if possible to prevent pil pushing through the piston rings saving a fuck load in money just by a 10 $ part.
SPARK PLUGS: unless you get fancy ass ruthium spark plugs from NGK like I did for my crv, theyll typically last you 30K miles. Unless its a subaru then its a matter of popping the hood, taking out the sparkplug wires, taking out the plugs them selfs and putting in new plugs. Tighten them at Id say 20 FT IBS. Alternatively if you got ruthium spark plugs youll want to clean them. IDK what you would use to clean em but my best geuss is the fuel for your vehicles. Adjust to round bar peice to ensure proper arcing of the plugs and put back in. At 100K miles youll want to consider replacing both the plug wires and ignition coil to ensure proper circuit on the whole ignition system. Beisdes thatbmake sure the alternator (I dont know shit about) and the car battery is in good condition. Symptoms of bad ignition is typically high RMP and rough idling.
Breacks are actually the first thing I did. Take out the lug nuts, then the brake calipers then the caliper brackets. Replace the rotor too just incase. DO NOT USE A IMPACT TO TIGHTEN THE CALIPER! Caliper bracket on the other hand is safe to tighten with a impact if not to high torqe. Brake fluid, have a professional do brake fluid. Itll save your brakes. Brake fluid is a bitch to fix.
TRANSMISSION: So there isnt much to say from me except a couple things. If the transmission is high mileage then do not flush especially a automatic translation because itll clog veins preventing the gear from being lubricated and fucking up the system. Instead just do a simple fluid exchage. I never driven or worked on a manual. But clutches should be replaced on occassion. IDK how often though but be sure to replace the pilot bearing along with the clutch. And probably the fluid to. Differential fluid if your car works all 4 wheels is extremely easy to replace if you have a first gen CRV. Not so much with most of the other vehicles out there since youll have to use liquid gasket and tighten the gasket bolts in a super complex version of whats like tire lugnuts. But its as straight forward as simply replacing the fluid but always remove the fill plug first if the diff has one before the drain. Because if you cant remove the fill plug and you drain it out. You'll be in a world of shit. Speacking of 4wd/awd. Look into greasing the drive shaft bearings and pray you dont need to replace the drive shaft bushings.
Coolant. One of the most hardcore jobs I did incar was replacing the radiator. Drain out the coolant. Use distilled water to flush out all the old coolant. Drain out that water and quick before your engine rusts up. Disconnet all hoses/wires leading to the fan. Including the transmission hoses if the radiator has that too. Then take out the shit load of bolts that mount the radiator. Put in the new one. The hoses will be a bitch to take in and out. Be ready. Then comes the tedious part. Putting in new coolant. You have to put it in the fill side radiator and when it fills, run the engine, watch as it all goes down. Fill it up again, and again and again. Its a extremely simple but long proccess. Just like:
STEARING: or stearing fluid. Except you flow the fluid through via turning the wheen as you replace fluid via pump and pour. Just dont siphon to much fluid out the resivor or youll get air and shit in the system. Alternatively you could use transmission fluid in the system or thats what some mechanics will do. Tie rods on the other hand will need a alignment after replacing.
Sorry if I miss out alot of details(and spelling/grammer fuck ups) Ill fill it in via a big ass comment on the thread. I gotta go to work at wagy ass amozon. And deliver food. Hope I dont give moldy berries to another foild unless I want to get fucking fired.
See yall in a shit load of hours.
