I may not plan on being a plumber. But damn did I feel hellbent on becoming on until now where Id prefer HVAC. Plumbers make actually more money then HVAC, have a much less brain proccessing job and its alot less puzzling to be one then a HVAC tech. Just dont have retard levels of IQ and have a good ass work ethic. And be a responsible person. Lets this be a guide/motivation to be a plumber. In hopes I can get one of you guys to get in the trades and be a bjt like me.
Basics: So a couple things to know is your mostly fucking around with either water or shit. Preferably water for reasons that dont need explaining. So you need to know this part. Theres a supply route of water and drainage route. Supply delivers water and drainage in a way is simuler to a electric circut. Granted the 2 ends dont touch each-other thankfully. Most of the time working on these 2 parts will ejther consist of fixing a leack or cleaning/unclogging drains. Water supply will divide into a shit load of things. But the first stop is usually the supply vaulve in the garage for 99 percent of residential homes. After that itll be piping and split into 2 water lines. One goes through the water heater and the other goes into pretty much the cold line of sinks, showers/bath tubs and I dont think heated water is needed for toilets LOL. Coldwater will be all of that but will actually go into toilets and the cold water will go to the cold side of water supplys.
Cold/hot water supply: theres not much to go here besides that heated water should be seperated from comd water so the thermal deosnt escape from the heated pipe and gets wasted. It is ideal the have a decent distance between heated and standered water supply. Both should be insulated from eachother but heated line should be insulated more so if you can only insulate one side of the piping. Heated water most of the time will go through water heaters but rarely water boilers(those are more common in fancy houses). Either way therell be a spout waiting for both sides of the water suppy.
Water heaters: this is how 99 percent of water is heated for houses. Modern day heaters try to be tankless since its more effiecient for frequent usings but less efficient for rarely usings. Waters heaters either heat water with either gas or electrical ohm-age or electrical resistance. The electrical heaters are way more simple and less likely to wreck shit up unlike the gas heater but heres some need to knows. Heaters should be flushed Id say once a year. Turn off the heater first to avoid damaging the heater, drain out all the water and fill with new water before turning the heater back on. Itll preserve the life of the heater. Along preserving is repacing the anode rod. Water itself contains enough minerals to disolve the insulation in a water heater so a anonde rod contains non toxic self sacrificing materials to dissolve in the water to prevent the water from destorying the system. Repace it every 3 years to preserve the system. When heating up water the water is flowed through channels that are simuler to how a heating coil works probably for tankless heaters. As the water travels it gives it a increased distace of heating the water allwoing proper heating if the water is still running. A leack in the system will allow unheated water to mixed with heated water and ruin such device in a water heater. Gas water heaters uses gas supply and needs proper ventilation to prevent gas buildup in the house and explosion/fire. Unlike electric water heaters it uses flame to heat up the system. Its simuler to a furnace in a way and probably has the same saftey feutures of a furnace but I could be wrong. There is a gas shutoff supply vaulve before the gas water heater that should be used before draining such water heater. Water heater can either be found in special closet type (like in my grandmas house) or much more commonly in either basments/garages in most houses.
Piping: Depending on how modern the plumbing system/house is youll get different types of piping and even different piping for different applications. Plastic like piping has taken over almost every plumbing scenario except gas supply. Copper is a old school type of piping for water supply. Usually is soldered or brazed for better durability. You could use crimping but I dont recomend it. Oh and I recomend getting a book of what applications piping is used for in plumbing. Cast iron/lead pipes are mostly common for old school drainage systems but can be replaced by the right type of plastic like piping. Also Im not gonna give any names for such plastic piping because I dont remember what types of plastci piping is good for what. The except is the red/blue piping for water supply. I think its called pex but I could be wrong. Red is for heated watter, blue is for cold supply water. Not one other detail to mention is that drainage piping will always be larger then supply water piping for obvious reasons. And as the drains get closer to leaving the house the diameter will get larger because as the pipes meet up itll need more room for getting all this shit out. Another thing to know is that drainage piping requieres ventalation going towards up and out the roof. Thats because literal shit will have awfull and actually dangerous gasses emitted from them. So drainage will have verticle piping go up the roof. Any non verticle vent piping will need to be slopped upwards towareds the roof to prevent gas buildup as the pressure of those gasses dont want to go up that easily. Another things is that drainage piping needs to be at the right slope when taking shit out of the house because too steep will make all the drain water go yeet and shit will dry inside the draine pipes and clogg up the drains. But not steep enough and youll have the same problem but in a different way.
Water supply leacking/fitting: When it comes to leacks theres kinda 2 types of leacks. Big and small. Big leacks are rare and super noisy. Easy to find but will fuck shit up. Small ones are less noisy and arent really spotted unless driping noises are heard or the cealing start looking dark/soggy. Expect water to fall down either soon or once you open the leack area on the ceiling like a dumbass. A short diamter hose fitting with a shop vac is a great way to rid that water puddle. After making it to were the leack is at find the leack via identifying were you water coming out from. Usually it'll either be old ass copper pipes or shit fittings between any pipes of any kind. Once the leack has been found go to the garage and shut down the water supply. then open all the faucets at all the sinks above and near the site were its leacky as shit. Use a pipe cutter to cut out the section and be ready to use new pipe. If its a plastic piping do your best to the the cut a straight line. IDK about plastic but for copper pipping you'll need to debur the cutting of the pipe that was cut and intact to the house. Besure to clean the copper pipe and get ready to solder. Readdy up the fittings, dry fit it to see if it works. If so put flux on the part receiving the fitting weather fixing a shit fitting or shit pipe peice. Then solder the copper pipe up. You should look up how to solder since Im shit at brazing. Use a wet rag to quick cool the pipe and wipe out excess flux. Test to see if the leack has been solved or not and clean up. For plastic like piping its a matter of using primer and adhesive. Dry fit first. Then use primer & adhesive. Twist the pipe as you install it so it gets in deeper into the female port. But theres other piping methods such as crimping (not recomended for copper but maybe for pex) or self tightening memory pipe(super modern type of piping system).
Drainage piping: Most of the time if theres a leack itll be plastic like piping when it comes to drainage. Lead/cast iron is not one to leack to easily and usually requires a angle grinder for those types of piping. Plastic is a matter of doing what you do for any plastic type pipe leack.
Sinks: Usually for sinks its either gonna be replacing a o-ring/gasket to solve a leack, a fitting to solve a leack or cleaning out the drain with either a plunger or auger. In kitchen sinks it should be know the dishwasher drain pipe should go above the P-trap and the end of the hose should head down into the dishwasher sink drain port so the hose can have a p-trap of its own. Dishwashers itselfs might need cleaning(people like my grandma wont clean the dishes before putting them in the washer clogging up the dishwashers drainage system) so be ready to clean that if it goes to shit.
Toilets: Ah yes toilets. What we incels refer to women as. Well unlike women I can give you advice on actuall toilets. Theres like 5-6 gaskets/o-rings (pick a name) on them. One between the suppy hose and top tank. The flapper that connets the to flush trigger. One between the upper tank and the lower tank and the wax ring with is between the toilet and the floor drain. Ill just stick to explain the wax ring since all other gaskets is the same proccess with subtracted steps. Close off the toilets water supply on the hose. Flush the toilet to get water out the upper tanks. Remove it via 2 nuts with the bolts point down to the base of the toilet, not the ones at the base or not yet. Disconnect the watter supply hose, be ready for water spilling and lift the upper tank upwards. Put in in the bathtub for storage. Use a shop vac to rid the toilet water. Pop out the cap of the base nuts and unscrew. Lift the bottom part of the toilet up. Enjoy the smell of shit wile it lasts. Use a flat head to clean out the wax ring both at the very bottom of the toilet and at the drain base. Put in the new wax ring. Gently put the lower tank in place, tighten the base nuts to 80 inch IBS or 7 FT IBS. put the upper tank on. Tighten those upper nuts at Id say same spec. Re connect the watter supply and fill up the toilet with water before you die of Nova 6 gas from COD BO1.
For repacing the toilet do all that in adition of getting a new toilet.
Gas supply: now this could be either HVAC or plumbers problem. But all I know is 2 things. How to find a gas leack the DIY way. And to not fuck around with gas. To find it you need a spary bottle and soappy water. Listen for the hiss and spray were it sounds the loudest. If it bubbles up then leack confirmed. Now typically you never solder or braze gas piping. I dont remember actually how to fix a gas leack but step one is for sure shutting off the gas supply.
Now Im not gonna cover water boilers on this thread maybe in either the HVAC thread (witch will be after the next trade thread) or in its own thread. But I hope you consider a trade weather this or another trade thread I show. Do look into this. Id rather see yall be successful even if I cant HVAC max. I want to make a fucking difference in this world.
Be smart people. Dont wanna spend your whole life jobless. Parents wont be letting you live in there swamp forever.
Basics: So a couple things to know is your mostly fucking around with either water or shit. Preferably water for reasons that dont need explaining. So you need to know this part. Theres a supply route of water and drainage route. Supply delivers water and drainage in a way is simuler to a electric circut. Granted the 2 ends dont touch each-other thankfully. Most of the time working on these 2 parts will ejther consist of fixing a leack or cleaning/unclogging drains. Water supply will divide into a shit load of things. But the first stop is usually the supply vaulve in the garage for 99 percent of residential homes. After that itll be piping and split into 2 water lines. One goes through the water heater and the other goes into pretty much the cold line of sinks, showers/bath tubs and I dont think heated water is needed for toilets LOL. Coldwater will be all of that but will actually go into toilets and the cold water will go to the cold side of water supplys.
Cold/hot water supply: theres not much to go here besides that heated water should be seperated from comd water so the thermal deosnt escape from the heated pipe and gets wasted. It is ideal the have a decent distance between heated and standered water supply. Both should be insulated from eachother but heated line should be insulated more so if you can only insulate one side of the piping. Heated water most of the time will go through water heaters but rarely water boilers(those are more common in fancy houses). Either way therell be a spout waiting for both sides of the water suppy.
Water heaters: this is how 99 percent of water is heated for houses. Modern day heaters try to be tankless since its more effiecient for frequent usings but less efficient for rarely usings. Waters heaters either heat water with either gas or electrical ohm-age or electrical resistance. The electrical heaters are way more simple and less likely to wreck shit up unlike the gas heater but heres some need to knows. Heaters should be flushed Id say once a year. Turn off the heater first to avoid damaging the heater, drain out all the water and fill with new water before turning the heater back on. Itll preserve the life of the heater. Along preserving is repacing the anode rod. Water itself contains enough minerals to disolve the insulation in a water heater so a anonde rod contains non toxic self sacrificing materials to dissolve in the water to prevent the water from destorying the system. Repace it every 3 years to preserve the system. When heating up water the water is flowed through channels that are simuler to how a heating coil works probably for tankless heaters. As the water travels it gives it a increased distace of heating the water allwoing proper heating if the water is still running. A leack in the system will allow unheated water to mixed with heated water and ruin such device in a water heater. Gas water heaters uses gas supply and needs proper ventilation to prevent gas buildup in the house and explosion/fire. Unlike electric water heaters it uses flame to heat up the system. Its simuler to a furnace in a way and probably has the same saftey feutures of a furnace but I could be wrong. There is a gas shutoff supply vaulve before the gas water heater that should be used before draining such water heater. Water heater can either be found in special closet type (like in my grandmas house) or much more commonly in either basments/garages in most houses.
Piping: Depending on how modern the plumbing system/house is youll get different types of piping and even different piping for different applications. Plastic like piping has taken over almost every plumbing scenario except gas supply. Copper is a old school type of piping for water supply. Usually is soldered or brazed for better durability. You could use crimping but I dont recomend it. Oh and I recomend getting a book of what applications piping is used for in plumbing. Cast iron/lead pipes are mostly common for old school drainage systems but can be replaced by the right type of plastic like piping. Also Im not gonna give any names for such plastic piping because I dont remember what types of plastci piping is good for what. The except is the red/blue piping for water supply. I think its called pex but I could be wrong. Red is for heated watter, blue is for cold supply water. Not one other detail to mention is that drainage piping will always be larger then supply water piping for obvious reasons. And as the drains get closer to leaving the house the diameter will get larger because as the pipes meet up itll need more room for getting all this shit out. Another thing to know is that drainage piping requieres ventalation going towards up and out the roof. Thats because literal shit will have awfull and actually dangerous gasses emitted from them. So drainage will have verticle piping go up the roof. Any non verticle vent piping will need to be slopped upwards towareds the roof to prevent gas buildup as the pressure of those gasses dont want to go up that easily. Another things is that drainage piping needs to be at the right slope when taking shit out of the house because too steep will make all the drain water go yeet and shit will dry inside the draine pipes and clogg up the drains. But not steep enough and youll have the same problem but in a different way.
Water supply leacking/fitting: When it comes to leacks theres kinda 2 types of leacks. Big and small. Big leacks are rare and super noisy. Easy to find but will fuck shit up. Small ones are less noisy and arent really spotted unless driping noises are heard or the cealing start looking dark/soggy. Expect water to fall down either soon or once you open the leack area on the ceiling like a dumbass. A short diamter hose fitting with a shop vac is a great way to rid that water puddle. After making it to were the leack is at find the leack via identifying were you water coming out from. Usually it'll either be old ass copper pipes or shit fittings between any pipes of any kind. Once the leack has been found go to the garage and shut down the water supply. then open all the faucets at all the sinks above and near the site were its leacky as shit. Use a pipe cutter to cut out the section and be ready to use new pipe. If its a plastic piping do your best to the the cut a straight line. IDK about plastic but for copper pipping you'll need to debur the cutting of the pipe that was cut and intact to the house. Besure to clean the copper pipe and get ready to solder. Readdy up the fittings, dry fit it to see if it works. If so put flux on the part receiving the fitting weather fixing a shit fitting or shit pipe peice. Then solder the copper pipe up. You should look up how to solder since Im shit at brazing. Use a wet rag to quick cool the pipe and wipe out excess flux. Test to see if the leack has been solved or not and clean up. For plastic like piping its a matter of using primer and adhesive. Dry fit first. Then use primer & adhesive. Twist the pipe as you install it so it gets in deeper into the female port. But theres other piping methods such as crimping (not recomended for copper but maybe for pex) or self tightening memory pipe(super modern type of piping system).
Drainage piping: Most of the time if theres a leack itll be plastic like piping when it comes to drainage. Lead/cast iron is not one to leack to easily and usually requires a angle grinder for those types of piping. Plastic is a matter of doing what you do for any plastic type pipe leack.
Sinks: Usually for sinks its either gonna be replacing a o-ring/gasket to solve a leack, a fitting to solve a leack or cleaning out the drain with either a plunger or auger. In kitchen sinks it should be know the dishwasher drain pipe should go above the P-trap and the end of the hose should head down into the dishwasher sink drain port so the hose can have a p-trap of its own. Dishwashers itselfs might need cleaning(people like my grandma wont clean the dishes before putting them in the washer clogging up the dishwashers drainage system) so be ready to clean that if it goes to shit.
Toilets: Ah yes toilets. What we incels refer to women as. Well unlike women I can give you advice on actuall toilets. Theres like 5-6 gaskets/o-rings (pick a name) on them. One between the suppy hose and top tank. The flapper that connets the to flush trigger. One between the upper tank and the lower tank and the wax ring with is between the toilet and the floor drain. Ill just stick to explain the wax ring since all other gaskets is the same proccess with subtracted steps. Close off the toilets water supply on the hose. Flush the toilet to get water out the upper tanks. Remove it via 2 nuts with the bolts point down to the base of the toilet, not the ones at the base or not yet. Disconnect the watter supply hose, be ready for water spilling and lift the upper tank upwards. Put in in the bathtub for storage. Use a shop vac to rid the toilet water. Pop out the cap of the base nuts and unscrew. Lift the bottom part of the toilet up. Enjoy the smell of shit wile it lasts. Use a flat head to clean out the wax ring both at the very bottom of the toilet and at the drain base. Put in the new wax ring. Gently put the lower tank in place, tighten the base nuts to 80 inch IBS or 7 FT IBS. put the upper tank on. Tighten those upper nuts at Id say same spec. Re connect the watter supply and fill up the toilet with water before you die of Nova 6 gas from COD BO1.
For repacing the toilet do all that in adition of getting a new toilet.
Gas supply: now this could be either HVAC or plumbers problem. But all I know is 2 things. How to find a gas leack the DIY way. And to not fuck around with gas. To find it you need a spary bottle and soappy water. Listen for the hiss and spray were it sounds the loudest. If it bubbles up then leack confirmed. Now typically you never solder or braze gas piping. I dont remember actually how to fix a gas leack but step one is for sure shutting off the gas supply.
Now Im not gonna cover water boilers on this thread maybe in either the HVAC thread (witch will be after the next trade thread) or in its own thread. But I hope you consider a trade weather this or another trade thread I show. Do look into this. Id rather see yall be successful even if I cant HVAC max. I want to make a fucking difference in this world.
Be smart people. Dont wanna spend your whole life jobless. Parents wont be letting you live in there swamp forever.
