So some time ago I made a thread about Plumbers Maxing. This time its gonna be about electrical or what I can tell. I should mention that I never did much of any real electric work so I could be wrong on some parts or be missing some important stuff but I did take a CBE class for my HVAC carrear. So heres some wisdom to see if you want to spark max.
Three electrical factors. So the first thing to know about electrical is the 3 factors. Amperage, Omega or Ohms, and Voltage. Amperage is the current, the actuall part of electricity. Infact in electrical, voltage deosnt kill, amperage does. But the reason why voltage is always bitched about on warning pannels instead of amperage, I actually dont know why, I even googled why and then I forgot why a day later. But amperage is the actual electricy. Ohms or ohmage is resistance againt amperage. Think of it as a baffle inside a silencer and the gasses behind the bullet as amperage. The explosion itself is the voltage. Ohms is also known as resistance but how it resists is kinda a choke-like way. And it plays into voltage. Oh yeah voltage, voltage or volts is the energy behind amperage. Without volts, shit wont move. Then again without amperage shit wont move either. Without ohms then shit will get the electrical version of BBC. These factors play in Ohms law: E=IR. E is voltage since voltage is the energy for the Amperage. I is amperage and I thing the letter I means inductance but I could be wrong. R is ohms or resistance. Then theres P or power witch is massured in watts. Usually Wattage is messured were electricity is being used such as a light bulb, PS4 running STALKER shadow of chenobyl or a tv screen. The equation of wattage is W=EI. Current × Voltage.
Another thing to know is RMS. RMS is short for root means square. I dont exactly know what its for but to get it, you take the peack to peack of a sinewave(anotherthing I forgot what it is) and slice it in half. Then multiply by .7. Thatll get you RMS.
AC and DC. Those are 2 different types of electtrical current. AC means alternating surrent and is the most common type of current out there. All the residential/comerciial and even industrial buildings will use AC. Simply put its low amperage, high voltage making it easier to transport electricity at long distance. But suffures the hot skin effect were all the current will travel at the outer layer of a wire making wires more likely to heat the fuck up at the wrong time. DC is direct current. Its usually found in vehicles from the alternator and other scenarios that I dont know much about. Unlike AC, DC has all the current flowing through all of the wires. More powerfull of a current but not good at travelling at long distance. But since DC has much higher amperage it is alot more lethal to fuck around with then AC. Then again most lines of AC will be enough to give you the rope. Call it a wire noose... If Im correct only AC has the sinewaves going for it during the current, DC is just a straight dense line of current.
I dont know much about comercial but most residenial houses will use the 120/240 volts for the lines. 240 volts total for both line combined but 120 for each half of the line. That is the supply and return line of electricity. Some people will say 110/220 bolts, those people are usually old fucks who arent up to date with electrical code. But If Im right the voltage on comercial lines is 208 volts. I dont really know though. But one thing I do know that yall probably dont is the longest length prong on a outlet plug. Its the ground. Thats because you always want the ground prong connected in the circuit first. Oh and if bad shit were to happen like a surge, both a surge protector and ground circut is probably gonna save you the bullshit and spark roping in many cases. But then theres a alternative. GFCI. Ground Fault Circut Interuptor. I unfortunately dont know much about them. What I do know is if the amperage was to either rise or drop down a abnormal rate, the GFCI box will open the circut cutting off electrical supplys preventing bad shit from happening. I think it involves a junction box. But GFCI also has some grounding features but I dont know what it is. Another thing I dont know is if GFCI is the same as a self grounding outlet. Self grounding circuts do use the junction box as a ground via witchcraft.
But a big and dangerous problem with grounded circuts is either neutral grounding or hot grounding. These are 2 things thatll get you fucked up. So to ground a circut in a house outside of self grounding outlets is fucking pricey. And it involves code for houses. Except newsflash, houses and used cars tend to suffure the fate of bullshit scams. People will try to scam inspectors by either putting the neutral or hot wires into the ground to disguiss it as ground. Hot grounding is way more dangerous but way easier detect then netreul grounding. Its probably very illegal to do either of these things and rightfully so. Scams like that can kill people.
Now for the next subject. Wiring. You know when shit gets rubbed together it heats the fuck up? Same thing with amperage. If you put in enough voltage or amperage onto lets say a loose circut, the amperage will have little room to travel, imagine dense traffic but its going very fast and cars rub along side obstacles. The loose part will overamp such area burning it to fucking jihad. That can cause many bad things to happen, house fires, outlets melting, more house fires. Infact you can probably cause a house fire by fucking around with a loose outlet the right way. Or spark rope your self. Its kinda why in some cases wires or electrical parts of the house will be stappled in strategic places or covered in metal piping/ junction boxes. Rodents like mice/rats would love to chew on wire since the rubber simulates flesh to them. Or termites.
When wireing up somthing, not to much but do cut a good amount of wireing up such thing like a outlet. Dont use those fucking quick connect outlets were you stick a peice of copper wire into a micro glory hole, itll go to shit. Instead go with a traditional outlet, cut enough copper wire to make a metal hook shape, put it around the screw and screw on nice and tight. Give that amperage as much good room to move through the outlets between wires as possible.
Electric meters come in verietys. For me the only one I own is a Clamp-meter. Unfortunately Im bad with these meters, only thing Im good at is using the clamp to mesure amperage. One thing to know if you will only get a reading with the clamp if the clam is around only one side of the circut. Thats because the clamp amp measuring is done by checking a difference in amperage in a current. So if you put the clamp around both hot and neutral side of a current, itll be the equivelent to adding -1 to 1+0 on a caculator. Theres the multi meter witch is more popular. And for HVAC techs there the mego-meter witch is for detecting short windings on a AC motor by jizzing out 10KE of DC electricity. If theres a ground short circut on that motor then the ground will complete the mego-meters circut.
Oh yeah I almost forgot, shorting. Did you ask your parrents to take you to game stop and they said fuck that, take a U-turn back home? Thats the best way to describe a short circut. Basicly current deosnt like to leave there homes, just like us. So current will be more then happy to take shortcut back home if it can such as a such low-R path back to its electrical source. A real painfull example is actually motors. A word of advice who drive EVs. Dont drive like a black teen who thinks Fast&Furious is cooler then it really is. When you speed up too much in a EV, itll shove alot of Amps into the motor heating up the windings( since motors work by using current in windings make magnets act like karens) will melt off a special coating to prevent those windings of copper from touching eachother. And when that coating melts off it gone turn into a orgy gone wrong. Next thing thatll haplen is current short circuting in the motor windings, known as short winding. And to add the cherry on top hot spots will develop in the motor due to over amping and the short windings will get worse and worse as you use it. Possibly causing a fire in the motore as if the lithium problems in a tesla wasnt bad enough.
Now lets talk about arcs. On the surface it look like electric components used force lighting from the darck side of the force. In reality it amperage having it with our shit and jumping in the air to go home. I dont really know much about arcs but usually the dangers from them it either blasting your ass into cast or burning you medium rare.
Diodes, think if them as pitcher plants for current. They only allow current to go one direction.
Fuses, I remember them as the shiny things from fallout 4 but they are the equivalent of shutting down the border if too many illegals come in. Or if shit over loads in current, fuses will suicide bomb itself to protect the shit beyond it. If you need to repair a fuse, you should probably find out the source of a current overload first.
Capacitors is what you get if condoms and batteries collided. They hold current for a short term. Usually for demanding electrical components. AC motors will have 2 capacitors. A start and run capacitor. One to wake up the motor. The other to act like a cup of coffee.
Transformers. Less faggy then transfarmers, but there role is to step down voltage. How they do it is interesting, the current wirelessly goes from one coil of wire to another. Most of the time ls transformers are for stepping down voltage. In HVAC itll be 120E down to 24E. In power stations itll be from somthing big as fuck down to 120E.
Resistors have one role. Reduce the amperage and choke down current. But due to how resistors work, I wouldnt be suprised if they also crank up voltage but I could be wrong. Now a interesting thing about Resistance is that electrical resistant heating is how stuff like heating rafiators or electrical heating works. It purposesly runs a current through a coil of high resistance circut to heat up the coil and a fan blows air through it through air ducts(forshadow of whats next).
There may be more I missed and wished to put on but this has been my thread about electrical. I wanna sat thanks if you made it this far, and up next will probably be how to HVAC max. Or what Im trying to do right now. But the amazing thing about electrical, its kinda a step 1 for like alot if not most of thebtrades out there. Alot of trades need you tonknow about electrical. And electrical is like the geeky version of plumbing. But I hope this gets you into considering electrical because this was all typed on a samsung phone. And my thumbs hurt. Call it thumb ohms. Unless you got a record then your fucked. Most trades expect a record cleaner then Jesus Christs searching hystory.
Three electrical factors. So the first thing to know about electrical is the 3 factors. Amperage, Omega or Ohms, and Voltage. Amperage is the current, the actuall part of electricity. Infact in electrical, voltage deosnt kill, amperage does. But the reason why voltage is always bitched about on warning pannels instead of amperage, I actually dont know why, I even googled why and then I forgot why a day later. But amperage is the actual electricy. Ohms or ohmage is resistance againt amperage. Think of it as a baffle inside a silencer and the gasses behind the bullet as amperage. The explosion itself is the voltage. Ohms is also known as resistance but how it resists is kinda a choke-like way. And it plays into voltage. Oh yeah voltage, voltage or volts is the energy behind amperage. Without volts, shit wont move. Then again without amperage shit wont move either. Without ohms then shit will get the electrical version of BBC. These factors play in Ohms law: E=IR. E is voltage since voltage is the energy for the Amperage. I is amperage and I thing the letter I means inductance but I could be wrong. R is ohms or resistance. Then theres P or power witch is massured in watts. Usually Wattage is messured were electricity is being used such as a light bulb, PS4 running STALKER shadow of chenobyl or a tv screen. The equation of wattage is W=EI. Current × Voltage.
Another thing to know is RMS. RMS is short for root means square. I dont exactly know what its for but to get it, you take the peack to peack of a sinewave(anotherthing I forgot what it is) and slice it in half. Then multiply by .7. Thatll get you RMS.
AC and DC. Those are 2 different types of electtrical current. AC means alternating surrent and is the most common type of current out there. All the residential/comerciial and even industrial buildings will use AC. Simply put its low amperage, high voltage making it easier to transport electricity at long distance. But suffures the hot skin effect were all the current will travel at the outer layer of a wire making wires more likely to heat the fuck up at the wrong time. DC is direct current. Its usually found in vehicles from the alternator and other scenarios that I dont know much about. Unlike AC, DC has all the current flowing through all of the wires. More powerfull of a current but not good at travelling at long distance. But since DC has much higher amperage it is alot more lethal to fuck around with then AC. Then again most lines of AC will be enough to give you the rope. Call it a wire noose... If Im correct only AC has the sinewaves going for it during the current, DC is just a straight dense line of current.
I dont know much about comercial but most residenial houses will use the 120/240 volts for the lines. 240 volts total for both line combined but 120 for each half of the line. That is the supply and return line of electricity. Some people will say 110/220 bolts, those people are usually old fucks who arent up to date with electrical code. But If Im right the voltage on comercial lines is 208 volts. I dont really know though. But one thing I do know that yall probably dont is the longest length prong on a outlet plug. Its the ground. Thats because you always want the ground prong connected in the circuit first. Oh and if bad shit were to happen like a surge, both a surge protector and ground circut is probably gonna save you the bullshit and spark roping in many cases. But then theres a alternative. GFCI. Ground Fault Circut Interuptor. I unfortunately dont know much about them. What I do know is if the amperage was to either rise or drop down a abnormal rate, the GFCI box will open the circut cutting off electrical supplys preventing bad shit from happening. I think it involves a junction box. But GFCI also has some grounding features but I dont know what it is. Another thing I dont know is if GFCI is the same as a self grounding outlet. Self grounding circuts do use the junction box as a ground via witchcraft.
But a big and dangerous problem with grounded circuts is either neutral grounding or hot grounding. These are 2 things thatll get you fucked up. So to ground a circut in a house outside of self grounding outlets is fucking pricey. And it involves code for houses. Except newsflash, houses and used cars tend to suffure the fate of bullshit scams. People will try to scam inspectors by either putting the neutral or hot wires into the ground to disguiss it as ground. Hot grounding is way more dangerous but way easier detect then netreul grounding. Its probably very illegal to do either of these things and rightfully so. Scams like that can kill people.
Now for the next subject. Wiring. You know when shit gets rubbed together it heats the fuck up? Same thing with amperage. If you put in enough voltage or amperage onto lets say a loose circut, the amperage will have little room to travel, imagine dense traffic but its going very fast and cars rub along side obstacles. The loose part will overamp such area burning it to fucking jihad. That can cause many bad things to happen, house fires, outlets melting, more house fires. Infact you can probably cause a house fire by fucking around with a loose outlet the right way. Or spark rope your self. Its kinda why in some cases wires or electrical parts of the house will be stappled in strategic places or covered in metal piping/ junction boxes. Rodents like mice/rats would love to chew on wire since the rubber simulates flesh to them. Or termites.
When wireing up somthing, not to much but do cut a good amount of wireing up such thing like a outlet. Dont use those fucking quick connect outlets were you stick a peice of copper wire into a micro glory hole, itll go to shit. Instead go with a traditional outlet, cut enough copper wire to make a metal hook shape, put it around the screw and screw on nice and tight. Give that amperage as much good room to move through the outlets between wires as possible.
Electric meters come in verietys. For me the only one I own is a Clamp-meter. Unfortunately Im bad with these meters, only thing Im good at is using the clamp to mesure amperage. One thing to know if you will only get a reading with the clamp if the clam is around only one side of the circut. Thats because the clamp amp measuring is done by checking a difference in amperage in a current. So if you put the clamp around both hot and neutral side of a current, itll be the equivelent to adding -1 to 1+0 on a caculator. Theres the multi meter witch is more popular. And for HVAC techs there the mego-meter witch is for detecting short windings on a AC motor by jizzing out 10KE of DC electricity. If theres a ground short circut on that motor then the ground will complete the mego-meters circut.
Oh yeah I almost forgot, shorting. Did you ask your parrents to take you to game stop and they said fuck that, take a U-turn back home? Thats the best way to describe a short circut. Basicly current deosnt like to leave there homes, just like us. So current will be more then happy to take shortcut back home if it can such as a such low-R path back to its electrical source. A real painfull example is actually motors. A word of advice who drive EVs. Dont drive like a black teen who thinks Fast&Furious is cooler then it really is. When you speed up too much in a EV, itll shove alot of Amps into the motor heating up the windings( since motors work by using current in windings make magnets act like karens) will melt off a special coating to prevent those windings of copper from touching eachother. And when that coating melts off it gone turn into a orgy gone wrong. Next thing thatll haplen is current short circuting in the motor windings, known as short winding. And to add the cherry on top hot spots will develop in the motor due to over amping and the short windings will get worse and worse as you use it. Possibly causing a fire in the motore as if the lithium problems in a tesla wasnt bad enough.
Now lets talk about arcs. On the surface it look like electric components used force lighting from the darck side of the force. In reality it amperage having it with our shit and jumping in the air to go home. I dont really know much about arcs but usually the dangers from them it either blasting your ass into cast or burning you medium rare.
Diodes, think if them as pitcher plants for current. They only allow current to go one direction.
Fuses, I remember them as the shiny things from fallout 4 but they are the equivalent of shutting down the border if too many illegals come in. Or if shit over loads in current, fuses will suicide bomb itself to protect the shit beyond it. If you need to repair a fuse, you should probably find out the source of a current overload first.
Capacitors is what you get if condoms and batteries collided. They hold current for a short term. Usually for demanding electrical components. AC motors will have 2 capacitors. A start and run capacitor. One to wake up the motor. The other to act like a cup of coffee.
Transformers. Less faggy then transfarmers, but there role is to step down voltage. How they do it is interesting, the current wirelessly goes from one coil of wire to another. Most of the time ls transformers are for stepping down voltage. In HVAC itll be 120E down to 24E. In power stations itll be from somthing big as fuck down to 120E.
Resistors have one role. Reduce the amperage and choke down current. But due to how resistors work, I wouldnt be suprised if they also crank up voltage but I could be wrong. Now a interesting thing about Resistance is that electrical resistant heating is how stuff like heating rafiators or electrical heating works. It purposesly runs a current through a coil of high resistance circut to heat up the coil and a fan blows air through it through air ducts(forshadow of whats next).
There may be more I missed and wished to put on but this has been my thread about electrical. I wanna sat thanks if you made it this far, and up next will probably be how to HVAC max. Or what Im trying to do right now. But the amazing thing about electrical, its kinda a step 1 for like alot if not most of thebtrades out there. Alot of trades need you tonknow about electrical. And electrical is like the geeky version of plumbing. But I hope this gets you into considering electrical because this was all typed on a samsung phone. And my thumbs hurt. Call it thumb ohms. Unless you got a record then your fucked. Most trades expect a record cleaner then Jesus Christs searching hystory.
